What's the difference between those branded battery grip from canon compared to those unnamed one?

i was contemplating of buying a battery grip for my canon D40. however the canon is so expensive compared to those unnamed brands. i just need your thoughts and comparison regarding these options. branded or unnamed battery grip. your opinion!

An officially branded battery grip may have better ergonomics and a higher resale value down the road, should you choose to sell it later.

Although I do not specifically have experience with off-brand battery grips, I have tried off-brand flash, omnibounce, remote shutter switches, a lightsphere-like diffuser, tamron and sigma lenses.

I have yet to experience any issues or problems with any of those items.

Take a look at these:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11229

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15274

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12487

It depends, some people are perfectly happy with there third party grips. I went with Canon because I read a lot of reviews that mentioned that the shutter button on third party grips felt mushy and not quite as nice. In the end Im sure the third party grips work fine and its mostly a matter of aesthetics and just wanting Canon components. Yes its a cheap peace of plastic and not worth the price they charge, but I figure that if Canon is building this thing cheaply, the third party versions can only get worse.

What lens is good for Canon Rebel XT when it comes to action photography?

I am new to the advanced photography world, and I just purchased Canon Rebel XT because it seems to be a great entry level camera with good features. I am mostly interested in taking photos of dogs at dog park and events, etc. I want to be able to take clear photos of them running around. What are the lenses that would fit my criteria? I would like something on the cheaper side that does the job. Thanks a lot!

I'll give you some criteria used in choosing a lens, and then suggest a few that I would use for this purpose.

1. Zoom or prime

Zoom lenses are lenses that cover multiple focal lengths. Prime lenses cover a single focal length. Zooms should NOT be confused with telephotos (lenses for shooting far away things), as telephotos can be either zoom or prime. Zooms give you greater flexibility, but primes offer superior image quality at a given price point. Primes are also available in larger apertures (see below).

2. Focal length

Remember that your DSLR is a "crop" sensor DSLR. This means that your sensor is significantly smaller than 35mm film, and only uses the center of the image circle created by a standard lens. The simplified result of this "crop effect" is that you need to multiply the focal length on the lens by 1.6 to get the effective length on your camera. (No, the lens doesn't magically change, but the crop will make you move YOUR position, which will change the perspective rendered by the lens.)

The classic ranges for 35mm film are (give or take)

14-24mm = Ultra Wide Angle

24mm-35mm = Wide angle

40mm-70mm = Normal Perspective

70mm-135mm = Short Telephoto/Portrait

135mm-299mm = Telephoto

300mm + = Supertelephoto.

So take the lens's focal length and multiply by 1.6 to figure out how the lens will work on YOUR camera.

Note that EF-S lenses are lenses designed for your reduced image circle. This doesn't mean that you gain any optical benefits (quite the opposite in most cases), but some of these reduced-circle lenses represent great values, or at the wide end (EF-S 10-22) offer perspectives not available in full-frame lenses.

3. Maximum Aperture

When you see a number like f/2.8 or f/4-5.6 on the side of a lens, it tells you the maximum aperture that the lens is capable of achieving. Larger apertures give you a few capabilities. They allow you to shoot in lower light without flash (more light coming in = faster shutter speed). This is VITAL for sports photography, or any situation where the subject is apt to be moving. Larger apertures also allow you to shoot shallow depth-of-field shots, where the background and foreground are blurred to isolate the subject. A larger aperture lens can be stopped down for more depth-of-field or slower shutter, but a "slower" lens cannot be opened up. Larger apertures also offer faster auto-focus (with a few exceptions), as lenses slower than f/2.8 disable some of the AF sensors on your camera.

4. IS

Some Canon lenses offer IS. IS is a gyroscopic device that lives in the back of the lens and tries to correct for lens movement. This is extremely useful when you are shooting hand-held, but still can be useful on a tripod or monopod (although some older lenses require that you disable IS on a tripod). IS is great for shooting STATIC subjects in low light, as it will allow you to use a slower shutter speed than you would otherwise be able to. Some IS lenses offer "pan mode" which will stabilize the lens vertically, but allow you to pan the lens horizontally (think racecars with the background blurring as they move). IS is almost useless for most sports, as the key issue is not camera movement, but getting a shutter fast enough to stop the subject's motion.

5. Little red rings

The Canon "L" series of lenses is the "L"uxury lineup of optics, and they all have a little red ring around the front. In reality, this designation has more to do with being designed for professionals than for use as a luxury item. The L series lenses are *typically* of higher optical quality AND build quality than their consumer grade cousins. For zooms in particular, there are VERY few offering really strong quality in the consumer lineup (EF-S 10-22, EF-S 17-50IS, 70-300IS being the most notable exceptions).

6. Third party lenses

Tamron, Sigma, Tokina.... people take sides on the "are third party lenses ok" debate as vehement as their stances on major political issues. In my experience, some third party lenses offer an excellent value for the money. That said, ALL lenses have a certain variation in quality between copies of identical lenses. Test 3 copies of a Canon 50mm 1.4 in the store, and you will likely see a difference in performance. This tends to be even more pronounced in 3rd party lenses! So I recommend that you only consider purchasing a 3rd party lens from one of the three manufacturers I listed, and only if you can test it in store, or if the store has a fair return policy.

There ARE other concerns when buying a lens, but this should be more than enough to get you started.

That said... for your stated purpose:

You need a focal length where you can shoot at a bit of a distance... so telephoto is where its at here. If it were me, I'd be looking at the EF85mm f/1.8 or EF100mm f/2 primes for a value option with this purpose. If you feel you need more reach, the EF200 f.2.8L is superb and value priced at about $500. If you decide that you need a zoom, the least expensive telezooms I recommend are the EF70-200 f/4L or the 70-300 f/4-5.6 IS. The non-IS 70-300 is not very well built and offers a different (and much inferior) optical design from its IS brother.

You most definitely want to get a prime.

I would recommend the 300mm F/4 USM. It is almost two stops faster at the 300mm focal length than the zoom. And much sharper.

For the budget conscious shoppers and your stated end use, I'd say the 75mm-300mm f 4 > f 5.6 III, or the same lens w/ USM (ultrasonic focus motor). They sell for 159.00, and 189.95 respectively @ B+H Photo Video. With your digital crop factor, that puts you out beyond 450mm, so look into a mono pod or some other support device, and remember to keep your shutter speed up to stop action, and reduce the effect of camera shake.

Good luck and have fun, WOOF

EDIT: Primes really aren't a good choice for fast changing situations...and an image stabilized DO USM lens is hardly affordable...NOTE "On the CHEAPER side"...

Sigma makes a 55-200 which would get you into the tele-zoom world without breaking the bank.

http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-55-200mm-Telephoto-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0001VQ12Y

Try this out and if you want a better one later, you won't be out much $$$.

Hope this helps.

How do I install a canon in the trunk of my car?

How can I install a small canon, which pops out of a little door in my trunk, to shoot silly string at tailgaters?

How good are you at welding?

Forget them, drive as normal, do not brake check them, just drive how you usualy would. Do not be agrivated by them, they will have an accident someday, but it doesn't have to be with you.

As much as I like the thought and have even thought about doing the exact same with a paintball gun, Guess what, it is illegal. Even though not a real weapon, it can cause a person to think it is and take evasive action that can cause an accident.

So put the brakes on this thought.

balls of green glibber out of the back of the car, after a warning sigh has been ignored - they will still see where they are going but will be disgusted; actually I usually don't change my speed and only put on hazard lights if someone is really too close

install the canon in the trunk, and use the trunk release release button instead...

Call Jesse James at West Coast Choppers

or

the Boys at "Pimp My Ride" !!!!!

How do I make my Canon camera take photos automatically?

I want it to do that thing where it is timed and takes the photos on its own. How do I do that?

I have a Canon Powershot A 430, if that helps.

on the back

press the button that has a clock beside it

If you don't have the little picture of a timer that Tom mentions, try this. Some of the "entry level" Canon cameras require you to use the menus to set the self-timer.

Press "FUNC" to get the menu display.

Toggle down to the third icon, which is a rectangle, for the "Drive Mode."

Toggle to the right until you reach the delay that you want to use.

You can choose 10 seconds, 2 seconds, or Custom delay.

Press the "FUNC" button again to confirm your desired delay.

When the delay that you want is displayed, set up your picture, push the shutter button and then the red-eye reduction lamp will blink once per second until the picture is taken.

You cancel the self-timer by going through the same series of actions, but choose the single-frame (rectangle) all the way to the left on the menu bar.

Dr. Sam is correct. However, for you to be able to access the timer and other functions, you will first need to turn your mode dial to M (it's on the back of the camera...in RED).

look in the manual or the menu for the timer option. most are auto set..meaning its set at 10 seconds..but it only goes off once. that particular camera can be set 2-10 secs..but there is a custom setting..still only one shot. you would need a camera with a timer cable release. im not sure what the other options are without getting a prosumer camera.

What is the best Canon Powershot camera to buy?

I would use it for family, scenery, selling on eBay, pictures in the pool, just about anything and everything. Also, I'm sure they do, but do these take video as well? I want a Canon Powershot because I see that they have waterproof cases that you can buy for underwater photos, which would be great to go along with the new pool! Any suggestions would be great! Thanks y'all!

Hey there girlie--- I have a canon powershot 8 megapixel Pro 1 -- and i love it it shoots video- it stops action, iat gets along well with my pc,and lots more-- email me reg email for me details if you want!!

This is the site I usually refer to

Go to cnet.com and do a canon camera search on there. they review almost everything.

I don't know anything about underwater cases, but if it has to be Canon:

Canon PowerShot A640 4X optical zoom, 10 megapixels

Canon PowerShot A630 4X optical zoom , 8 megapixels

For super zoom:

Canon PowerShot S2 IS 12X optical zoom, 5 megapixels

Canon PowerShot S3 IS 12X optical zoom, 6 megapixels

Look at reviews at Website dpreview.com

I agree with the camera selections offered by VintageMusic.

Regards,

Vic

What are the best canon lenses for portrait and landscape photography?

I have a canon digital rebel xt that i received as a Christmas present. I'd like to take professional looking portraits of my baby and family, whats the best lens for this? I'd also like to buy a good lens for landscape photography. Any suggestions?

If you understand the fundamentals of photography you will know the lens that best fits your needs. The fundamentals are not really rocket science, to really really use an SLR/DSLR like the XT you need to know how to get the max out of it.

For example: If by landscape you mean like a sunset or a sort of mountain/lake scenery you will need a deep depth of field (DOF) and you need to know what DOF means and how you can very easily change that on your XT (you do this by changing the aperture of your lens in the the Aperture Priority (Av) or Manual mode (M) mode). Similarly for babies you want a shallow DOF and you do this since the baby is the focus of your pic and you want the background blurred.

But by changing the aperture you also mess with the amount of light thats entering the camera and that affects the shutter speed etc.

Its not that hard, once you understand the fundamentals you will know EXACTLY what kind of lens you need. For starter I suggest:

1) Get a good photography teacher or a good easy to read photography book. I recommend "Understanding Exposure" it has lots of pics that explains what the terms means visually. IMO its the BEST $15 you will ever spend in your photography hobby. You will understanding what makes up an Exposure-Aperture, Shutter and ISO.

2) Once you know that, when you read your Camera manual it will make a lot of sense.

3) For beginner portraits the best lens is the $75 EF 50mm f/1.8. This is a prime lens (it does not zoom you zoom in and out with your feet) and it a fast lens (any lens with an aperture more than f/2.8 is called fast, since it usually yields fast shutter speeds) and bigger the aperture f/1.4, f/1.8, f/2.0, f/2.8 even f/4 the shallower the DOF and the more blurred the background is.

Note: In photography f/2.8 is smaller than f/2, which is smaller than f/1.8. This is because it is a ratio, so f/1.8 is large coz it lets in MORE light than say f/2.8. It's confusing now but will make a lot of sense once you get the fundamentals.

I am assuming your camera came with a EF-S 18-55mm kit lens. This is a moderately Wide Angle Zoom lens and its really good for landscapes and close people shots. If you do 1-3 as listed above you will figure out what your favorite focal length is for shooting and what you really need.

I could easily tell you to get a $640 EF-S 10-22 mm lens for wide angle landscapes or a $300 EF 50mm f/1.4 for portraits but you need to know WHY they cost that much and how to use them first to justify the cost. There is a reason why good lens cost a LOT of money and you need to understand photography to understand their cost and how to get the most from them.

Landscape Paintin from Photo:

http://www.photoartomation.com/ArtWork/Landscapes.htm

I ordered a large poster print. That was awesome! http://answers.yahoo.com/question/accuse_write?qid=20071229191828AAYjxMO&kid=OoNGDlrOKHigcfVqVW6Z&s=comm&date=2008-10-29+00%3A07%3A07&.crumb=

What camera lens should I buy for my Canon?

I have a Canon EOS Rebel X SLR film camera. I think it is a great camera and I am looking into purchasing a new lens(s) for it but I don't have a clue where to start.The lens that came with it is 35-80mm. I would like to get a really good all around lens (if there is one out there). It would be for taking portraits and things outdoors. Not looking to become a pro photographer but would still like to be able to take awesome pics of wildlife, landscapes, and of the nieces and nephews at ball games and other family gatherings. Thanks for all the help!

For film, a 35-80mm covers what is conventionally known as the normal range, ie it doesn't cover wide-angle (less than 35mm) or telephoto (over 85mm). For portraits and most outdoors work, you will want to extend your coverage into the telephoto range. Typical zoom ranges here are 70-150mm or 70-200mm. This will probably work for sporting events where you can get reasonably close to the action and are not stuck in seating well back from the sidelines.

Wide angle lens are great for interiors, landscapes with prominent objects in the foreground, and candid family shots where you are close to the subjects. You might find the 35mm end of your zoom is not quite short enough. Options include a prime (single focal length) lens around 20-28mm, or a wide-angle zoom.

You can buy a single lens solution like a 28-200mm lens. This would, in theory, replace your current lens completely. But they are bulky. For my Nikon, this lens weighs nearly twice the 28-80mm zoom, and I have kept the smaller lens because it is easier to carry and use in many circumstances. It is also easier for my 9yo grand-daughter to use when she is with me - the heavier lens would be much harder for her to manage.

As a film user, the advice to avoid the lens made specifically for digital is sound. Digital sensors are much smaller than the film image size, and these lens don't have to be perfect over the larger area that you need.

As they said, you've gto the right "basic" lens for most of your stated purposes. Look at these Canon Lenses and Reviews and see where you can fill in on the wide or tele ends. Personally, I think tele is more fun, going up to 400 mm or so... As you look at the reviews, see if there is any distinction made between digital use or film use. You want to avoid the digital design lenses or they won't cover your entire frame.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/ (See "Recommendations" on this page)

http://www.photo.net/canon/#lense

http://www.wlcastleman.com/equip/reviews/index.htm

http://www.photozone.de/active/news/index.jsp

http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/index.html

http://www.fredmiranda.com

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1029

Your 35-80mm is a good all-around lens. You might look at a 28mm macro lens for real close work(flowers, collectibles, etc.) Also a 300 to 600mm zoom or telephoto lens is nice. From there you will have to decide how deep you are going to get into photography. There are some really god 1200 telephoto lenses like they use for sporting events, but they are SPENDY!!! Good luck.

also consider the 28-200mm lens which I've been using practically for everything.

Dr. Sam does a good job answering SLR questions.

If he doesn't see this one.

Post it again in a couple hours.

I see that I am a little too late.

I should have checked first.

jonnydollar left out the one you need for landscapes ... the 10-22mm .. Canon of course